Ruger 22/45 barrel removal?

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  • Ruger 22/45 barrel removal?

    Hey guys,

    I'm thinking of doing a custom Ruger 22/45 build with a new longer barrel, say 14".
    Anyone ever removed the barrel from the receiver?
    “The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil, is for good men to do nothing” - Edmund Burke

  • #2
    You are kidding aren't you Morgo ???

    Thanks...

    Comment


    • #3
      Nope
      “The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil, is for good men to do nothing” - Edmund Burke

      Comment


      • #4
        Mmmm, I see.

        Thanks...

        Comment


        • #5
          Should make a good silhouette pistol
          “The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil, is for good men to do nothing” - Edmund Burke

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          • Guest's Avatar
            Guest commented
            Editing a comment
            Morgo you are trippin'

            I can't even fathom how you would own a Mk22/45 and had not pulled the barrel off....

            How long have you owned it for? I had my MKII for a week and I had pulled the barrel off at least ten times for cleaning and general mucking around.

            I'll tell you how to do it if you sell me your HERA stock....

        • #6
          Any thoughts for going a 22/45 over a Mk II or III ?

          Comment


          • Morgo
            Morgo commented
            Editing a comment
            Originally posted by Frenchy" post=3239
            Any thoughts for going a 22/45 over a Mk II or III ?
            The MKII 22/45 is my favourite followed by the MKII, not a real big fan of the MKIII's

          • Guest's Avatar
            Guest commented
            Editing a comment
            Originally posted by Frenchy" post=3239
            Any thoughts for going a 22/45 over a Mk II or III ?

            They have a few differences. The newer model Rugers (including the newest 22/45s) have a magazine disconnect which requires fitting of an aftermarket hammer bushing...it was a feature apparently included by Ruger to comply with Californian law, but which presents the annoying problem of the mags not dropping free. Plus having to insert & remove the mag x number of times during the field stripping process.

            22/45s compared to MkIIs or IIIs I personally find the 'swept-back' grip angle of the Mks uncomfortable, the 22/45 has a more upright position, meant to duplicate the grip of a 1911. I have a 22./45 but it is the older model (which I think Morgo also has a couple of - at least lol) it does not have the mag disconnect issue, and a 'rounder' grip which fills my hand better compared to the new model which is a bit more slab-sided.

        • #7
          Morgo, does vid this help ???

          I just found a Ruger 22/45 in the safe's, I forgot I had a few of them.

          Can take it apart if the vids don't help.

          Thanks.
          ...

          Comment


          • #8
            lol

            Guys I want to remove the barrel from the receiver not the barreled receiver from the frame

            I learn't how to field strip a Ruger a loooong time ago, it was my first handgun
            “The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil, is for good men to do nothing” - Edmund Burke

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            • #9
              I've always assumed its a two piece deal, so I imagine the barrel can be pulled out...
              “The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil, is for good men to do nothing” - Edmund Burke

              Comment


              • #10
                Morgo,

                I've pulled apart a lot of these in the past. Some can be removed easily and some can be quite a bit tighter.

                These instructions are for a bull barrel model, but the tapper barrel is essentially the same procedure.
                Now, the problem with removing Ruger Mk barrels is that part of the receiver (where the lug on the lower slots in) is usually crushed after it is installed. This is hand fitting that is done to fit the lower to the upper. The older guns have a pretty nicely done fit, but the new one can some times be super tight. It should also be noted that the feed ramp is an integral part of the barrel, and extends some distance past the barrel threads. On pistols that have done a lot of shooting, large amounts of carbon can work their way in between the ramp and the receiver adding more friction preventing the barrel from being removed. This makes them quite difficult to get out in most cases. Do not try and put a punch through the bolt stop pin holes and twist off the receiver as you run the risk of twisting it. Yes it can be done on some, but it's risky.
                To do it properly, the barrel will need to be held in a barrel vise. You'll also need to either make a receiver wrench or buy one. Brownells now sells a head set for their universal action wrench Part # 080-801-111WB which makes life easier.

                Lets begin.....
                1. If it's a Mark III or similar model that has the loaded chamber indicator, you'll need to remove it. After unloading and removing the lower receiver, assuming you're right handed, hold the barrel in your left hand, with the rear sight pointing away from you and the rivet that holds the ejector in place pointing to your right hand. Using a soft hammer of dead blow, tap on the rivet. Try not to keep you left hand too rigid. You'll feel a sweet spot when you hit it right, and the loaded chamber indicator pin will start to rise up out of it's hole like magic and can be removed. If you have problems let me know and I can make a video.
                2. Remove the front sight, and sit it on a bench rear sight downwards. This provides a downward slope to the barrel. Fill the cavity where the front lug on the lower slots into the upper with good penetrating oil. Let in soak into the threads for a day or so.
                3. Remove and scope rails of grub/set screws. If not removed these will prevent the barrel from being unscrewed.
                4. Degrease the barrel with brake cleaner then apply powdered rosin and clamp in your barrel vise. The best barrel vise I have found is simply two pieces of wood clamped in a hydraulic press with a piece of 12mm steel plate on either side. Pump your press up to about 4000psi. The best wood I've found is either Alder or Poplar at least 1" thick. If it's a highly polished barrel I sometimes use a piece of paper, but for a regular Ruger barrel it won't scratch it.
                5. Clamp on your receiver wrench. Some people use some thin paper in between the wrench and the action but I've never found it necessary. Make sure not to clamp it too tight as you'll crush the receiver. It's a fine balance between enough clamping force to grip the receiver and too much that will crush it.
                6. Spin the receiver off anti clockwise in the normal way. So far I've never needed to use a cheater bar. Some require force to turn them off all the way (stainless in particular) and some screw easily by hand of after the initial torque required to get them to break free.
                7. Another method I've heard of but never used is to cut a relieving cut where the barrel butts up against the receiver. Never tried it as I've never found it necessary.

                If you're going to be making up an extended barrel a MkII or earlier would be preferred as you won't have to machine the loaded chamber indicator etc afterwards. You could always leave it out I guess.
                If any of this doesn't make sense, let me know and I'll try and clarify, or I can take pics or possibly grab an old receiver and video it.
                FYI when making up your new barrel, the front sight screw size is #6-40 thread.

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                • #11
                  Cheers guys, really appreciate the info, TT, if you have any videos of it being done or pics of the pulled barrel and its threads etc it would be really appreciated
                  “The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil, is for good men to do nothing” - Edmund Burke

                  Comment


                  • Tornado-Technologies
                    Tornado-Technologies commented
                    Editing a comment
                    If you're not in a hurry, I'll add it to my list of things to photograph and or film, still trying to decide what would be the best video camera. Some have suggested a Go-Pro, but I think it would be annoying to watch a video of someone doing that kind of work with the camera bobbing around. Tripod mounted is the way to go. Be a good excuse to upgrade my SLR to a Canon 5D MkII or III.

                    Originally posted by Morgo" post=3495
                    Cheers guys, really appreciate the info, TT, if you have any videos of it being done or pics of the pulled barrel and its threads etc it would be really appreciated

                • #12
                  Here's my Ruger MK10



                  I'll likely pick up another used MKII 22/45 for this project.
                  “The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil, is for good men to do nothing” - Edmund Burke

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                  • #13
                    removed
                    cant work out how to delete lol

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                    • Morgo
                      Morgo commented
                      Editing a comment
                      Originally posted by Frenchy" post=3519
                      removed
                      The TS pac lite should drop straight on top of your MKII frame mate
                      They are counted as another handgun though.

                  • #14
                    Thanks for the extra pics mate, doesn't look like it will be too hard, I imagine getting the feed ramp correct will be the tricky part.

                    Any idea what the two holes on top, one in threads one further back, are for?
                    “The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil, is for good men to do nothing” - Edmund Burke

                    Comment


                    • Aussie44
                      Aussie44 commented
                      Editing a comment
                      Originally posted by Morgo" post=3553
                      Any idea what the two holes on top, one in threads one further back, are for?
                      They would be drilled and tapped for the Pic rail from the factory. The receiver is real thin and there is plenty of meat in the barrel.
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