Redding 3 die rifle set

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Redding 3 die rifle set

    HI All,

    A quick question re: the 3 die set from Redding, do you use both the Full Length sizing die and then the neck sizing die or just one of them?

    When you look at the dies they look almost exactly the same and both have the decapping part of the die.

    I am trying to setup my old 550B for 22-250 reloading and came across this problem. Also, from what I have seen it looks like you don't crimp the proj like you do in pistol reloading.

    Thanks

  • #2
    One or the other. One completely sizes the case back to factory, the other just the neck to hold onto a new bullet

    Comment


    • #3
      If the cartridge you are reloading was fired in the same gun as you wish to reload for neck sizing is 90% best practice as it reduces the wear on the brass and is what is called fire formed and is usually more accurate
      full length sizing is usually performed when mixing guns and ammo of the same calibre Or if you may have been running high charges and the case has not relaxed enough when cooled in the chamber to chamber freely again
      redding do a body die and a full length die The difference is the body die can be used to size loaded rounds as it does not resize the neck
      So in short if you use a body die you will need to use a neck die or a full length die to resize your neck
      My experience is that if you buy a neck resizing kit you get a full length a seater and a neck die
      If you buy a bushing die kit it comes with (bushing die (neck only and primer )) seater and body die
      May i suggest reading a book such as Nick Harveys PRACTICAL RELOADING MANUAL It also has good load data to reference to
      Tim
      17mk2 annie , 22lr 1712 annie silhouette, sakoP94s ,221 fireball rem700 , 204 sako 85 hunter ,222 sako85 hunter ,223 sako85s x2 ,260r sako85 ,6.5x55sako75 ,7mmrem mag sako 85 ,308 sako 85 308 finnwol,30-06 sako85 ,375H&H sako85 ,460wm Weatherby custom ,12gsingle and double ,410 double, 17air, 22PCP

      Comment


      • Guest's Avatar
        Guest commented
        Editing a comment
        there doesnt seem to be any real consensus on whether neck sizing is better than full length sizing - theres an argument for full length sizing (but in stages) which I think is quite compelling. From what I understand you use the body die to bump the shoulder back each firing then use bushing die to neck size - the argument is that every case is as uniform as possible each time it goes into the chamber (rather than having small changes in dimension each time as is the case when you neck size only)

        personally I neck size - its accurate enough for me and it takes less effort!

      • Yoshie
        Yoshie commented
        Editing a comment
        May i suggest reading a book such as Nick Harveys PRACTICAL RELOADING MANUAL It also has good load data to reference to
        Tim[/quote]

        Good tip

    • #4
      I think it simply comes down to what you are doing, shooting wise. The posts above state well what the differences between the two are. My old man has been shooting his entire life (just vermin control) and has never full length resized brass. He would only be running mild loads and didn't have any magnum cartridges. The first Magnum cartridge I purchased, a 270WSM, made me realise that you can't get away with just neck sizing on everything. I had to full length resize these every time. I would prefer to set up to just bump the shoulder back with the high power cartridges but am not set up for it just yet and hence just take them back to factory with the full length die. I really do think that for hunting and general shooting either neck sizing or full length resizing back to factory is fine. As nuthead said, I too think there is a great argument for just bumping the shoulder back, but generally only when you are trying to squeeze every last bit of accuracy out of your setup for competition. It makes sense to me that just bumping the shoulder back a little every time is the best way to make sure that the brass is the same every time while still keeping most of the benefit of fire formed brass. For example, I have been running a fairly warm load through my 308 target rifle (47.4gr AR2208 155gr pill) and I have noticed that on my first reload on fire formed brass (only neck sized) it is just a tiny bit hard to chamber, can still do it with out a drama, but can just feel it. I reckon that after my 2nd or 3rd I would have to full length resize. I have a head space tool coming so I can accurately set up my full length die to just bump the shoulder back .001 every time so I don't have this problem and still maintain as much of the shape of the fire formed brass as possible.

      So if I were you I would probably just be neck sizing, but when you start a reload I would make sure that the fire formed brass is chambering before I loaded a heap of rounds!

      Comment

      Working...
      X