Help with Lee bottom pour pot

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  • Help with Lee bottom pour pot

    I have just bought a Lee bottom pour pot and have cast some 124 9mm bullets this morning. I am using 2/6/92 ingots from Northern Smelters. I have the heat setting at 5 and once my Lee 2 cavity mould has heated up after a couple of dozen bullets I am getting about 25 bullets cast and then they start frosting really badly. I tried turning thr setting on the pot down to 4 and not so successfull and tried up to 6 and they frosted even worse so seting of 5 seems the best. Has anyone got any tips? they would be greatly appreciated

  • #2
    I'm no expert, just a mere novice myself but maybe let your mold cool a bit when you start to notice the frosting.
    I cast 1oz slugs and usually do two dozen or thereabouts and stop for a cigarette, let it cool for 5-10 minutes and go again.
    Not suitable for mature audiences

    Comment


    • glock40sw
      glock40sw commented
      Editing a comment
      the lee thermostats are pure crap.
      I removed mine and built a PID controller.
      Now I can set the temp at 372Deg C and it will hold that temp until I drop in a new ingot.
      I currently have the 20lb pot with the 10 lb pot mounted above it and use the 10 lb for preheating ingots to molten and when the bottom pot starts to empty, I refill from the top pot. No need to stop casting. I run 3 6cavity molds at once. that way all molds have plenty of cooling time. 3 hours of casting gives me about 3000 bullets.

      I's suggest cooling your mold on a damp towel. I used to do that when I was casting with 1 mold.

  • #3
    Try a desk fan next to your casting pot (but not blowing on the pot)... when you fill the mold move it into to the airflow and allow it to cool for a few (say 5) seconds (helps with clean spur cuts on the base as well) before cutting the spur. Also piece of steel plate to rest the mold on for a few seconds helps a lot as it acts as a heat sink.. Best option I've found is running two molds with the fan option.

    Comment


    • #4
      picked up a PID, SSR and K thermocouple from a local bloke- via ebay for $18 delivered!

      not sure if they are the right ones though-
      going by the labels,
      the PID is:
      MODEL - C100FKO2-V*AN
      RANGE - 0 -400C K
      OUTPUT - SSR
      No. - 130804
      SUPPLY - 100TO240VAC, 50/60HZ
      RKC instrument INC made in Japan
      -------------------------------------------------
      the SSR is:
      FOTEK
      SSR-25 DA
      terminals 1&2 24 -380VAC
      terminals 4 neg 5 pos 3 to 32VDC
      -----------------------------------------------
      Thermocouple is:
      WRNT-01
      K
      0-400C
      2000MM
      Takahashi instrument instrument factory

      has red and blue terminals at one end, braided cable, and a short threaded male fitting at the thermocouple end.
      cant read the rest as its all in funny chook scratchings

      --------------------------
      My plan is to build stand alone temp. controllers for my lee pots, and "bolt" the thermo into the base of the pot.
      only things I am not sure about- is my PID good enough- only being rated at 400degrees- [that leaves very little tollerance for overtemp.],
      and is welding a steel female fitting into the base of the pot for the thermocouple a good idea?

      the way I see it- these bits cost me stuff-all, and if no good for my lead pots, I can soon find other uses for them [cooking coated bullets is soon to be on the agenda]

      stephen
      all times wasted wots not spent shootin'

      Comment


      • Guest's Avatar
        Guest commented
        Editing a comment
        I'd be keen to see how it turns out for you... i could also go either route (modified lee pot or for the oven)

      • 17Hornet
        17Hornet commented
        Editing a comment
        So care to help out with the Ebay Vendor?? Their shop ID?
        Reading this, I am so going to do it, got about 18 UPS's, sacrificing one to a MUCH better cause.

        Originally posted by [email protected]" post=26275
        picked up a PID, SSR and K thermocouple from a local bloke- via ebay for $18 delivered!

        not sure if they are the right ones though-
        going by the labels,
        the PID is:
        MODEL - C100FKO2-V*AN
        RANGE - 0 -400C K
        OUTPUT - SSR
        No. - 130804
        SUPPLY - 100TO240VAC, 50/60HZ
        RKC instrument INC made in Japan
        -------------------------------------------------
        the SSR is:
        FOTEK
        SSR-25 DA
        terminals 1&2 24 -380VAC
        terminals 4 neg 5 pos 3 to 32VDC
        -----------------------------------------------
        Thermocouple is:
        WRNT-01
        K
        0-400C
        2000MM
        Takahashi instrument instrument factory

        stephen

    • #5
      Wohoo, got my bits in from Ebay, project for the school holidays
      The TRUTH is out there,
      the Aliens think its a great joke on us.
      We still believe in Santa, but eat the Easter Bunny

      And the Easter Bunny tastes SO GOOD !!
      That's why he is made of Chocolate.

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      • Guest's Avatar
        Guest commented
        Editing a comment
        Originally posted by 17Hornet" post=39661
        Wohoo, got my bits in from Ebay, project for the school holidays
        Mine turned up the other day, being in a rush to put it together I managed to put power where it shouldn't have been and blow the shit out of a resistor
        Picked up a replacement from JayCar for 60 cents to repair my oops, put it in this evening and brilliant, did a 30min cycle and it over ran by 3 degrees dropped below by 2 and then didn't vary by more that 1 degree. Should have done it years ago.

    • #6
      I have all my temp. controller bits piled on the desk, begging for attention,
      along with an almost complete s/s tumbler [waiting for drive belt to arrive],
      and next to that is much of the stuff for an annealing turntable,

      but.............. the sandwichmaker has declared housepainting takes priority over "silly gun stuff"

      Hornet & 220, are you using the wiring diagram put up by glock40sw?

      any problems or pitfalls to avoid?, dont really want smoke to get out of the wires if I can help it.

      stephen
      all times wasted wots not spent shootin'

      Comment


      • Guest's Avatar
        Guest commented
        Editing a comment
        Originally posted by [email protected]" post=43038
        Hornet & 220, are you using the wiring diagram put up by glock40sw?
        Mine has different numbering on the terminals but wired the same way, I also have my box earthed,
        Take your time, identify the terminal numbers and don't be in a rush like me

    • #7
      I have had mixed joy with mine, still a heap of learning to to, anyways i discovered that due to the single element in the bottom, my lead got hotter and hotter as the level changed, but i only needed to tweak the knob a from 5 to 5.5 or less to make it calm down a little, i hung my temperature meter in it to discover this.
      I did record all the temperatures over 1 entire casting session for interest.

      Click image for larger version

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      Comment


      • 17Hornet
        17Hornet commented
        Editing a comment
        Wiring set out is usually on the side of the controller, showing the terminal numbers and loads etc.
        [email protected]
        Put up a pic or pm me an image and we can draw up a wiring diagram for you.
        NOTE all controllers have different configuration for terminals, but it is not too hard to figure out.

        LOL, I've been checking/looking out for a solid aluminum record turntable to start on the "annealing" machine.
        Happy to buy an old junker from a garage sale to build it from cos the spindle and belt drive is all there, just change the motor for a stepper and control its timing, drill some holes in the platter for the cases in the right position and mostly there!

        My t/stat build is in a few weeks, as the Christmas period is a shocker for the business we have.
        The tumbler from HELL is 20% done, you guys are gone piss yourselves when you see it in pics, my wife cant believe it!
        Just a small challenge for me, to see if it could be done.

    • #8
      My turntable is based on the cast aluminium end cap from a dead industrial refridgeration compressor!
      [mates rebuild compressors- and this was in thier scrap pile]

      bolt holes around the outside edge have been drilled out to 5/8" to suit diametre of cases with a bit of clearance,
      the end plate is domed- and has a 32mm hole in the centre- it is drilled/tapped either side of the hole for a flanged outlet pipe.
      these will be perfect for securing a spindle- but It will be overkill as I have 30mm I.D. bearings and shaft earmarked for the job!

      Not sure about the drive for it yet- probably either friction drive or belt drive directly onto the 30mm shaft with some type of speed controller thingo to drive it slow enough.
      [electrickery isnt my strong point]

      attached is pic. of my PID's and SSR for the temp controller.
      output for the controller will be feeding into a regular 240 volt GPO.
      PIDtempcontroller.pdf sorry- pic. has reverted to "northern hemisphere" settings

      stephen
      all times wasted wots not spent shootin'

      Comment


      • 17Hornet
        17Hornet commented
        Editing a comment
        OKAY here is the list, any one can correct me if they think I'm wrong.

        I assume you are using a metal box, you will need to Earth the shell.

        Plug top and flex cable with Brown/Red Active - Blue/Black Neutral - Green Earth
        Temp probe
        SSR
        Controller
        Some 1.5mm wire for links (electrical cable for lighting - 1m from the hardware/ Bunnings)

        Controller Terminals -

        You need to make a wire link, strip the outer sheath from the lighting cable to get insulated wire for these links.
        From the Controller terminal 4 (+) to the SSR terminal 3 (+)
        then Controller term 5 (-) to the SSR term 4 (-)
        The SSR is connected to Controller.

        2X wire from the ThermoCouple (TC) to Controller -
        Blue to Term 9 (-)
        Red to Term 10 (+)
        TC is now connected to Controller.

        From your 240V plug top and lead to the Controller, connect the Brown wire into terminal 1, Blue wire into terminal 2.
        Thats basic wiring for your Controller, T/C and SSR.


        Melt Pot to SSR -
        The SSR has Terminal 1 & 2 which basically switches the active from the plug lead of the melting pot.
        This switches the element on and off as required.

        You could cut off the plug from the pot cord and wire the Brown/Red to SSR term 2,
        and then make a link from Controller term 1 and connect that to SSR term 1.
        So now you are switching the Active to the pot via the SSR.

        Then you need to connect the Blue/Black wire from the pot cord to Controller term 2.
        Thats the Neutral done.

        AND most important, the Green wire from both Power cords needs to be connected together
        for the Earth (solder together for best joint if you can) and also make an Earth connection to the
        'case/shell' if it is made of metal.
        If you don't do this, your melt pot could toast you DEAD!!

        Do it this way and all you will need to do is turn the original melt pot temp control, all the way up.
        The Controller will control the temp via the T/C.
        If you ever go to sell it, just put a new plug on the Pot wire, and its good to go.

        Apparently the SSR's can get hot and some guys are using heat sinks, and even cooling fans on them.
        A metal case would be best for this reason. But I cant see it being too much of a problem.
        However I will be using a UPS case as suggested by the thread originator, that way I have a portable
        Temp Controller and everything just plugs into the back of the box.
        I have stacks of them around.

        Hope that helps.

    • #9
      OK. took me awhile to get back to this.
      Here is my double PID setup in an old UPS case.




      Comment


      • #10
        Great looking setup Glock,

        I have exactly the same ups as a spare but wont be using it, I have another ups case started.

        I noticed you have the controllers separately switched on the front and a main(?) switch at the rear
        (replaced the original sw because of current capacity)

        Could you tell me what the numbers 10 & 20 mean from the front panel please?

        Speaker connecting rail is a simple fix, I was going to do it with bnc connectors.

        Good work.
        The TRUTH is out there,
        the Aliens think its a great joke on us.
        We still believe in Santa, but eat the Easter Bunny

        And the Easter Bunny tastes SO GOOD !!
        That's why he is made of Chocolate.

        Comment


        • glock40sw
          glock40sw commented
          Editing a comment
          20 = 20lb pot
          10= 10lb pot
          each controller has a seperate switch. The switch on the back is main isolator.
          Sometimes I only run 1 pot. this is why they have individual switches.
          The plug for the mains input retains the original UPS fuse in the plug housing.
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