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  • Threadlocker

    For all things firearm related I guess, but at this moment scope mounts and rings.
    I have always used threadlocker albeit not the recommended grade for the task it seems.
    I have a set of mounts and rings to fit and in doing so thought I would research the product I had on hand (which I have had for 20 odd years and the bottle has become tacky) and the correct product for the task.
    A search of this forum didn’t reveal too much so before I throw it to the forum for advice, here’s a little info I found around the internet.
    Loctite Site Link

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    There seems to be a few mystery products being used other than threadlocker, with blue or medium Loctite being the most common viable product being used on firearms.

    This product seems to be mainly in the US. I found no reference to here in Aust.
    Looks to be marketing angle, blue Loctite?
    Click image for larger version

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    At this stage I intend to purchase purple DynaGrip branded threadlocker for a trial.
    When and Why to Use Purple Threadlocker

  • #2
    Further info,
    Quote from Loctite website:
    “this product is an anaerobic adhesive applied by drops to the threads of fasteners. It then cures to a hard thermoset plastic that locks the threads together. They are used only for metal to metal applications”

    While the red threadlockers require heat to remove, purple (low) and blue (medium) threadlockers can be assisted with, Methylene chloride, which is the base for a paint stripper I have and Methyl ethyl ketone (MEK) as in PVC primer.

    Some competitive Loctite products.

    Permatex Threadlocker

    DynaGrip Threadlocker

    Vibra-Tite VC-3 Threadmate


    • Skip
      Skip commented
      Editing a comment
      243 (blue ) is what I mostly use and the odd 222 (red ) and the odd bit of retaining compound and gasket sealer etc from loctite products.

      If you don’t have Blue loctite you can use some of your ol lady’s nail polish on the threads. Will do a similar job to the Blue loctite

    • SAAME
      SAAME commented
      Editing a comment
      I use 243 Loctite also I think it's medium strength . Someone told me that the higher strength stuff locks to tight for small machine screws and can break them off unscrewing .

  • #3
    Personally I think the Locktite mantra is overdone to buggery.
    Since I got my Fat wrench I am almost not game to tighten screws to some times even recommended tensions (Tikka in particular ).
    For bases to the action I like to set the base < almost always a one piece base -- is there any other kind ??? >on some Devon or metal bog style epoxy and just firm it down with no distortion -- and let that set.
    Oil the threads first and leave a very small clearance around for the bog to move into under pressure.
    On ring screws four is always better than two so get those mounts > grease the screws and don`t strip them by having them dry or galling up -- take a bit of care goes along way.
    Good solid mounts ARE worth it in the long run too.
    For the locktite die hards I used to like 680 as that will stick like sh&^%$t to a blanket and will be as hard to remove as well .
    I did have a fair bit of various locktites when i was gainfully employed onmachinery in a hostile working environment to and one of the best was the one for hydraulic hose fittings.
    BUT over time that stuff actually seems to corrode some metal away if it does not bodge it then it probably will when you undo the stuff unless you slightly heat it first.
    Not being a dab hand any more with the gass axe its just as easy to not use any locking compounds at all.

    Of course I may be wrong too and I don`t shoot heavy kickers but on my 308 or less sized rifle I never had any screws come loose but in earlier days I did strip a few cheepy ally ones
    Using an incorrect fitting Allen Key is almost as bad as using a chisel but some don`t have or can`t get hold of the right one at the time either .
    So many hex head torque screw sizes and stuff today its a topic all of its own too.
    Don’t poke the snake, walk around it and come back later with a double-barrelled shotgun and blow its [email protected]#!ing head off!.

    Australia in future, the outcome is the same, a bloody dictatorship run on the whims of a very few ego-centric pathological elitists.


    • #4
      Proper & correct torqueing to manufactures specs .

      Another minefield .
      Is this with oiled threads or dry ?.

      Not baiting any one but I heard this stuff argued about cars and head tensions and using tension wrenches as a kid just leaving school.
      It was controversial even then as just how tension was measured even with old and mostly steel or cast threads.
      Aluminum wasn`t a mainstream thing back then either.

      You can add to the mix of thread locking too as back then a lot of agricultural threads were simply painted over with lead paint.
      If you can find an original one today undo it and the chances are it will be as pristine as the day it was assembled.

      Box on fellas
      Don’t poke the snake, walk around it and come back later with a double-barrelled shotgun and blow its [email protected]#!ing head off!.

      Australia in future, the outcome is the same, a bloody dictatorship run on the whims of a very few ego-centric pathological elitists.


      • #5
        So we are split amongst the camps.
        To thread lock, to not thread lock (but to use correct torque) or to nail polish.
        Being that all my current firearms are pre-owned there are obviously quite a few individuals it would seem doing none of the above and overtightening screws with their limited or poor fitting tools.
        All rings I have in use here have had ring screws replaced with hex or torx head screws, no threadlocker, due to someone previous damaging the screw heads.
        I did use nail polish on a 10/22 dovetail base pre 1992 and will continue to stick with no threadlocker on new ring screws. The larger base screws however will still get threadlocker albeit the purple variety.


        • NoFerals
          NoFerals commented
          Editing a comment
          Originally posted by Pendous" post=272093
          So we are split amongst the camps.

          All rings I have in use here have had ring screws replaced with hex or torx head screws,

          Good idea that

      • #6
        I saw the subject title and thought haha the mods are on to someone else trying to sell shit in the forum.


        • pharr out
          pharr out commented
          Editing a comment
          Ive always used blue loctite on base to receiver screws as I have read this on other sites years ago.However I dont use loctite for any other screws on the rifle.Sounds like the purple loctite and nail polish is good too. Other thing I have heard is to never use the the red loctite( as in permanent locking) as you will have a lot of trouble if you ever have to dismantle. I have had bases come loose that came with the rifle and blue loctite fixed the problem.There are generic brands of blue threadlocker available from auto parts stores and dont cost much.Permatex is one other brand I know of. Just what I have found. Cheers.

      • #7
        I don't thread lock any scope mount screws or bases on low recoil rifles . I have found it's not really necessary and complicates changing scopes and mounts a bit unless it's a big heavy scope that overhangs the mounts quite a bit . 308 and up I loctite the ring caps screws and the base screws with Loctite 243 . If I think a base is a bad fit on the action , clean the base of any oil then I put 3 layers of glad wrap around the action ring and screw the base down onto a bed of JB weld or similar material only about 75% tight . This way no bedding material sticks to the action , it's all on the base . There is a few ways you could do this and no single way is right or wrong . Let it sit and go firm but not fully cured then strip everything off and lightly oil where the base will sit and screw it back down fully tight to cure . That way the base fits better but the action is unaffected . Getting both rings to line up is also a potential problem after doing something like this so then you may have to lap the lower ring cup . Never lap the upper ring caps they line up automatically .
        Last edited by SAAME; 09-02-2021, 10:18 AM.


        • #8
          I only do the base screws with nail polish or blue Loctite as they have come loose on me and wouldn't want it to happen on a deer hunt.
          The rest can be maintained.
          Never tried the base bedding but sounds like a good idea.

          Lubed threads would prevent the fails you get from time to time, but it does change the torque setting and won't help the ham-fisted blokes.
          They should use a torque wrench like everyone else.