can you adjust bedding jobs or do you have to re-do the whole job?

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  • can you adjust bedding jobs or do you have to re-do the whole job?

    hi gents,

    I have recently bedded a tikka t3 in a manners stock (which has a stainless recoil lug pre-bedded) I made the mistake of assuming the recoil lug would be contacting the recoil lug recess in the receiver (of course it doesnt!)

    after I finished the bedding job I found theres about a 8 thou (0.2mm) clearance between the recoil lug in the stock and the recess in the action

    the rifle seems to be shooting ok about 0.5-0.7moa (a cold bore flyer problem I had previously has disappeared) - I was wondering if anyone knows if there will be any long term effects to the bedding if the recoil lug isnt actually making contact? its a 7mm08 mostly shooting 168gr bullets at around 2620-2670fps so there is a little recoil but nothing crazy. I have a feeling that the recoil actually compresses the stock and bedding compound enough so that the action actually does bounce off the recoil lug before it returns to battery (but this is nothing more than a guess)

    otherwise would there be any problem in dremeling out just the recoil lug and rebedding it in the correct position or would this introduce a high spot or stress in the action?

    I'm trying to avoid re-doing a full length bedding job if possible!

    also does anyone have an opinion on bedding the knox form vs leaving it completely free floated? I was getting some vertical stringing as the barrel heated up - a problem which I didnt have before even with the 3 inches or so of barrel contact the factory tupperware stock had - I've read that bedding the knox form can have a dampening effect on the barrel making the rifle less load picky so I gave it a go (I'll dremel it back out if it causes problems on long shot strings)

  • #2
    Do as much as you can afford to do, don't forget the stock is fibreglass and is weaker than the Bedding material, so whatever extra strength you can introduce should be a good thing (strength in the form of bedding). Not sure how you floated the lug and ended up with the gap, but maybe try a tiny dab of superglue. Might be a bit harder to crack out when it's all cured though...

    I'd be making it as neat as possible (i.e. re-doing a ~1" square around the lug but also keying the surrounding material so it all locks together again). Don't stress if the lug gets scratched or anything when you're dremelling because those scratches will be below the surface when it's all bedded, and will be filled in by bedding compound to lock it in even more.

    In terms of long term effecs if it's left - think of recoil against your shoulder, you want to hold it against your shoulder so it's a push rather than a smack (if there's a gap).

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      thanks john - I got lazy and didnt end up dremelling out the lug in the first place (I just assumed that it would centre itself if i kept rearward pressure on the stock) - I'll cut it out and re-do the bedding job this time

      do you think I will need to re-do the tang area as well to make sure everything is still stress free?

  • #3
    But how much height is the Vertical String ..... ????

    At say 200-300m if it is 2-5mm then I would not be that worried about Stock Bedding being the issue and more of a worry would be Horizontal Strings.

    Vertical is preferred if you are developing loads as a small amount is said to be an advantage when it's windy and will tend to blow into a tighter rounded group whereas horizontal will just blow more horizontal and look like a crazy line across a target.

    I would get the Stock Bedding done to your liking so you are happy the Action has a solid bed in the Stock. BTW any of those that I have pulled apart and had a look at what a professional bedding looks like I have only seen about 12mm continue forward of the Action onto the Knox Form of the Barrel.

    My Tikka T3 has not been bedded yet but is booked in to have a Pillar Bedding done with my Gunsmith. I'm not game to even try it as he has way more experience with precision target rifles than I do.

    During discussions I do remember the talk of glueing the Tikka Recoil Lug to the Action in the correct position, relieving the Stock in the recoil lug area and then setting the recoil lug in the bedding. I'm only thinking that once set the recoil lug would be freed from the action and be positioned in the correct spot.

    Only my thoughts.....

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    • sirus17
      sirus17 commented
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      could you just put a longer recoil lug in? altho i might not understand the problem quite right but im guessing that when you bedded it the action sat alittle higher then normal so there is a gap between the lug and action?

  • #4
    I believe it's fore and aft clearance in the slot of the Tikka Action.

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    • #5
      As mentioned when we spoke on the phone.

      This to me is "Vertical Spread" this to me is on the borderline of being acceptable and as you can see at 150 yards. This was my Tikka T3 6.5x47 Lapua during load testing and I fixed this with a slight adjustment of the powder load. If the two groups were a fraction closer I would have put it down to me and my shooting skills or the rifle setup. Also, this would be acceptable to a lot of shooters but not long range target.

      Anyway, make out of it what you like. Photo posted as an example I'm not really proud of.......

      Squares are 1" exactly and makes the two groups together about 1/2" which is terrible for this calibre.

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        just out of interest - did you drop the powder load to bring those shots together?

        It almost looks like a bedding issue - mine would sometimes split groups (worse than that obviously out of a factory barrel) but dropping the powder load would improve it - it was almost as if the problem only showed up under heavier recoil

    • #6
      Here's a pic of the bedding job on my Manners stock for your comparison. It was done by a very good smith (who due to some legal issues elsewhere won't be building any more rifles). The area around the recoil lug was milled out in a dog bone shape and filled with bedding compound for that 'tight as a ducks arse' kind of fit.



      It night be a gigantic pain in the arse but I think you should redo the whole bedding job. You wont be happy till it's just right.

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        Originally posted by Movealongnothingtoseehere" post=14788
        Here's a pic of the bedding job on my Manners stock for your comparison. It was done by a very good smith (who due to some legal issues elsewhere won't be building any more rifles). The area around the recoil lug was milled out in a dog bone shape and filled with bedding compound for that 'tight as a ducks arse' kind of fit.



        It night be a gigantic pain in the arse but I think you should redo the whole bedding job. You wont be happy till it's just right.
        yes its a gigantic pain in the arse!! but it looks like i have no choice - looks like thats a remington action? interesting to see he did what looks like 1.5 inches under the knox form as well - do you get vertical stringing as the barrel heats up? it looks very similar to the way I've done my tikka... see below


        Click image for larger version

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        double post

    • #7
      "nuthead" From memory I think I came down 0.2gr, trying to find my notes and target, which brought the group closer but in the end I'm pretty sure I reduced the seating depth which brought the group all into one but still around 0.3MOA with these 123gr Lapua Scenars. That was from something like sitting on the lands to 0.003" off the lands. It was some time ago and I was running out of the Scenars so I decided to give up and go with my more consistant bullet being the 130gr Berger VLD's, however the Freebore needs to be extended to suit these better which is still to be done at the same time I have that Gunworx stock Pillar Bedded.

      A work still in progress and left since I have the Remington 700 & Stolle Grizzly in the same calibre and setup for the 130gr Bergers.

      I have a huge advantage in being able to test any of my adjustments to load development immediately at home so slip inside make an adjustment and try that under the same conditions. It is possible to do the same thing at a Range if you have gear like the Wilson Dies / Press etc which is portable.

      Hope it does work out for you.

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        Originally posted by Mega" post=15231
        "nuthead" From memory I think I came down 0.2gr, trying to find my notes and target, which brought the group closer but in the end I'm pretty sure I reduced the seating depth which brought the group all into one but still around 0.3MOA with these 123gr Lapua Scenars. That was from something like sitting on the lands to 0.003" off the lands. It was some time ago and I was running out of the Scenars so I decided to give up and go with my more consistant bullet being the 130gr Berger VLD's, however the Freebore needs to be extended to suit these better which is still to be done at the same time I have that Gunworx stock Pillar Bedded.

        A work still in progress and left since I have the Remington 700 & Stolle Grizzly in the same calibre and setup for the 130gr Bergers.

        I have a huge advantage in being able to test any of my adjustments to load development immediately at home so slip inside make an adjustment and try that under the same conditions. It is possible to do the same thing at a Range if you have gear like the Wilson Dies / Press etc which is portable.

        Hope it does work out for you.
        thanks mega - if I shot some consistent groups in the 0.3's then I would have stopped load development long before you did and called my rifle an "absolute tackdriver" :lol: - just finished my re-bedding job (hopefully it looks OK after I pull it apart) - I'll post some pics

    • #8
      Also looking forward to hearing a happy shooter and the groups sort themselves out but it does mean load development.

      BTW "nuthead" there's been nothing in my mailbox, remember the offer......

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        sorry mega havent gotten around to that yet - I'll post them off soon

        yep - I guess I'll have to go through another round of load development... I hope theyre not too different from the old ones (it ends up being a slow and never ending process!)

        I keyed into and skim bedded the knox form again - I'll give it one more go (if it still causes vertical stringing I'll cut it off in stages)
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